How to Sew an Inseam Pocket: An Invisible Storage Solution

Inseam pockets offer hidden storage while maintaining your garment’s clean lines. Perfect for dresses, skirts, and trousers, they’re both practical and professional-looking. This guide shows you how to add them to any project with side seams.

Why Choose Inseam Pockets?

✅ Invisible Design – Hidden inside side seams
✅ Versatile – Works in dresses, skirts, pants, and jackets
✅ Comfortable – No bulk or visible pocket lines
✅ Customizable – Size, depth, and fabric are all adjustable

Materials You’ll Need

• Pocket fabric (lightweight cotton, lining material, or self-fabric)

• Sewing machine and matching thread

• Scissors and pins

• Iron and pressing cloth

• Marking tool (chalk or washable pen)

• Seam ripper (if modifying existing garments)

Pocket Sizing Guide

Standard Women’s Pocket: 6-7″ deep × 5-6″ wide
Men’s/Utility Pocket: 8-9″ deep × 7-8″ wide
Small/Children’s: 4-5″ deep × 4-5″ wide

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Prepare Pocket Pieces

1. Draft Pattern

   • Draw curved teardrop shape

   • Add ½” seam allowance all around

   • Test size with your hand

2. Cut Fabric

   • Cut 4 identical pieces (2 per side)

   • Match fabric weight to garment:
     Light garments: Cotton voile, lining silk
     Medium garments: Lightweight cotton, rayon
     Heavy garments: Self-fabric or sturdy lining

Step 2: Attach Pockets to Garment

For New Garments:

1. Mark pocket placement 3-4″ below waist on side seams

2. Pin one pocket piece to front garment (right sides together)

3. Stitch from mark to raw edge

4. Repeat with back garment piece

5. Press pockets away from garment

6. Understitch close to seam (prevents rolling)

For Existing Garments:

1. Open side seam 8-10″ at desired pocket location

2. Follow steps above

3. Re-stitch opened seam section

Step 3: Construct the Pocket

1. Align Pieces

   • Place front/back garment right sides together

   • Match side seams and pocket edges

2. Stitch Seam & Pocket

   • Begin at top, stitch down to pocket mark

   • Pivot, stitch around pocket curve

   • Continue down remaining side seam

3. Reinforce Opening

   • Backstitch at top/bottom of pocket opening

   • Add small bar tack for extra strength (optional)

Step 4: Finish Professionally

1. Press Properly

   • Press side seam open

   • Press pocket toward front

2. Edge Finishes

   • Serged: Quick and durable

   • French Seam: Elegant for unlined garments

   • Hong Kong Finish: Luxurious visible lining

Pro Tips for Perfect Pockets

Fabric Selection

Placement Guidelines

• Dresses/Skirts: 3-4″ below waistband

• Pants: 1-2″ below waist, aligned with hand position

• Jackets: 5-6″ below armhole

Construction Tips

• Cut pockets on bias for better drape in flowing garments

• Interface pocket openings in heavy fabrics

• Grade seam allowances to reduce bulk

• Test pocket size and placement with muslin first

Troubleshooting Guide

Design Variations

Decorative Details

• Contrast lining for hidden pop of color

• Embroidery or monogram inside pocket

• Lace edge on romantic garments

Functional Upgrades

• Secure Pocket: Add snap or hook closure

• Phone Pocket: Widen to 7″ for modern phones

• Double Pocket: Layer two pockets for organization

Final Quality Check

✓ Pocket opening smooth and accessible
✓ No pulling or distortion at side seam
✓ Seams finished cleanly
✓ Pocket depth comfortable for hand
✓ Garment lays flat when empty

Practice on a simple skirt or dress first. Once mastered, you’ll add these invisible pockets to every garment you make, combining style with practical storage.