How to Sew a Lapped Zipper: A Clean Finish

A lapped zipper creates an elegant, hidden closure perfect for dresses, skirts, and tailored trousers. Follow these clear steps for professional results.

Materials You’ll Need

• Fabric pieces with seam allowance

• Standard zipper (regular or invisible)

• Zipper foot for sewing machine

• Pins or wonder clips

• Seam ripper

• Iron and pressing cloth

• Tailor’s chalk or washable marker

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare Fabric & Seam

• Finish raw edges with serger or zigzag

• Mark zipper placement with chalk

• Sew seam with basting stitches at zipper area

• Press seam open along entire length

2. Position Zipper

• Place closed zipper face down on right seam allowance

• Align teeth with seam line

• Pin/clip in place, ensuring zipper lies flat

3. Stitch First Side

• Attach zipper foot to machine

• Stitch close to teeth on seam allowance only

• Start at bottom, backstitch at top

• Keep zipper pull up during stitching

4. Create Lap & Stitch

• Bring opposite fabric over zipper

• Fold under ¼” along edge

• Pin fold just beyond zipper teeth

• Stitch along folded edge from top to bottom

5. Final Steps

• Remove basting stitches carefully

• Test zipper function

• Press entire area with pressing cloth

• Add bar tack at top for reinforcement

Pro Tips

• Use lightweight interfacing on lap side for stability

• Match thread color to fabric for invisible stitching

• For centered look, ensure lap covers teeth completely

• Press at each stage for crisp results

Practice on a sample piece first—soon you’ll add this polished closure to all your garments.