Sew a Cargo Pocket (videotutorial at the bottom)
How to Sew a Cargo Pocket: A Step-by-Step Guide
Cargo pockets combine practical storage with rugged style. Learn to sew these versatile pockets for pants, jackets, and bags with this complete tutorial.
Why Choose Cargo Pockets?
✅ Extra Storage – Roomy design for small essentials
✅ Style Upgrade – Adds utilitarian-chic to any garment
✅ Customizable – Choose size, shape, and closures
✅ Durable – Perfect for workwear and outdoor gear
Materials You’ll Need
Main fabric (match garment weight)
Interfacing (for flap)
Sewing machine with heavy-duty needle
Thread (contrast or matching)
Scissors and pins
Closures (buttons, snaps, or Velcro)
Marking tool
Iron
Ruler
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Step 1: Prepare Pattern Pieces
Cut Main Pocket
Desired size + 1″ seam allowance all around
Example: For 6×7″ pocket, cut 8×9″ piece
Cut Flap Pieces
Two identical pieces
Add ½” seam allowance
Cut Gusset (Optional)
For 3D pockets: 1.5″-2″ wide strips
Step 2: Construct Pocket Flap
Interface wrong side of one flap piece
Place pieces right sides together
Stitch around three sides, leaving top open
Trim corners, turn right side out
Press flat, topstitch ¼” from edge
Step 3: Create Pocket Body
Option A: Flat Pocket
Fold top edge: ¼” then ½”
Stitch hem in place
Press side/bottom edges under ½”
Option B: Pleated Pocket
Mark pleat lines on wrong side
Fold pleats, baste across top
Follow flat pocket steps
Option C: Gusseted Pocket
Attach gusset strips to sides/bottom
Press seams toward gusset
Fold and press top hem
Step 4: Attach to Garment
Position Flap
Mark placement on garment
Pin flap right side down at mark
Stitch along top edge
Flip down and press
Attach Pocket
Position pocket below flap
Align with garment grain
Pin securely
Secure Pocket
Stitch ⅛” from edge (sides and bottom)
Reinforce top corners with triangles or bar tacks
Add closure to flap
Pro Techniques
Professional Finishing
Double Topstitch: ⅛” and ¼” from edges
Reinforcement: Bar tacks at stress points
Edge Finish: Serge or zigzag raw edges
Dividers: Stitch vertical lines inside for organization
Closure Options
| Type | Best For | Installation |
|---|---|---|
| Button | Classic look | Reinforce with interfacing |
| Snap | Quick access | Place on flap and pocket |
| Velcro | Secure closure | Stitch or fuse both pieces |
| Magnetic | Modern style | Insert between fabric layers |
Troubleshooting Guide
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Pocket sags | Use heavier fabric or add interfacing |
| Flap too small | Cut ½-1″ wider than pocket |
| Uneven topstitching | Use edge-stitching foot |
| Fabric too thick | Grade seam allowances |
Design Variations
Military Style
Angular flap with pointed corners
Button closure at each bottom corner
Olive drab or camouflage fabric
Urban Style
Minimalist rectangular design
Contrast topstitching
Metal snap closures
Outdoor Gear
Water-resistant fabric
Drainage grommets at bottom
Reflective tape trim
Final Checklist
✓ Pocket symmetrical and properly aligned
✓ All edges finished securely
✓ Closure functional and durable
✓ Topstitching straight and even
✓ Pleats/gussets evenly distributed
✓ Reinforced stress points
Practice on scrap fabric first, then add custom cargo pockets to jackets, pants, or bags for both style and extra storage space.
