Sew Perfect Side Slant Pockets
(videotutorial at the bottom)
How to Sew Perfect Side Slant Pockets: A Professional Sewing Guide
Side slant pockets (also known as in-seam diagonal pockets) are a practical and elegant feature you can add to skirts, dresses, and trousers. These pockets are integrated directly into the side seam, offering discreet storage while keeping a clean garment line. They perfectly balance style and function—invisible when not in use, yet always ready when needed. Follow this step-by-step guide to add them to your next project.
Why Choose Side Slant Pockets?
They add functional storage without altering the silhouette.
The diagonal opening makes it easy to slip your hands in and out.
Items are more secure compared to patch pockets.
They give homemade garments a polished, professional look.
Materials You’ll Need
Main fabric for your garment
Pocket fabric (self-fabric or a lighter-weight material)
Paper for drafting pocket pieces
Marking tools (chalk or washable marker)
Pins or sewing clips
Iron and ironing board
Sewing machine
Matching thread
Drafting Your Pocket Pattern
If your sewing pattern doesn’t include pockets, create your own:
Draw a pocket shape about 6–7 inches wide and 8–9 inches deep.
Give the bottom edge a slight curve for comfort.
Mark the pocket opening line (usually 5–7 inches long).
Add seam allowances all around.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Step 1: Mark Pocket Placement
On the right side of the front garment piece, mark where the pocket will open. This is typically 3–4 inches down from the waistline. Ensure the opening angles comfortably for easy access.
Step 2: Cut Pocket Pieces
Cut four pocket pieces in total—two for each side. If using lighter fabric for the pocket bag, use it for the inner layers.
Step 3: Attach Pocket to Garment Front
Place one pocket piece right sides together with the garment front, aligning the straight edge with the marked opening. Pin and stitch along the pocket opening line.
Step 4: Press and Understitch
Press the seam allowance toward the pocket piece. Understitch close to the seam through the pocket fabric and seam allowance to keep the pocket from rolling outward.
Step 5: Attach Pocket to Garment Back
Repeat the previous steps with the garment back piece and another pocket piece.
Step 6: Sew the Pocket Bag
With right sides together, align the garment front and back along the side seams. Pin around the outer edges of the pocket pieces and stitch the entire pocket bag, starting and ending where the pocket meets the side seam.
Step 7: Sew the Side Sea
Stitch the garment side seam, stopping at the pocket, skipping over it, and continuing again below. Backstitch at both ends of the pocket opening for reinforcement.
Step 8: Press for a Clean Finish
Press the side seam allowances open above and below the pocket. Press the pocket bag toward the front of the garment.
Tips for a Professional Finish
Add interfacing around the pocket opening if working with lightweight fabric.
Reinforce the top and bottom of the pocket opening with extra stitching or bar tacks.
Use lighter fabric for pocket bags to reduce bulk.
Match patterns at the opening for an invisible look.
Staystitch curved edges to prevent stretching.
Finish all raw edges with serging, zigzag stitch, or binding.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Gaping opening: Interface the area or adjust the angle of the opening.
Pocket bag visible: Use a lighter fabric or shift the bag slightly toward the back.
Sagging pocket: Reinforce the top with stay tape or reduce pocket depth.
Bulky seams: Trim and layer seam allowances, and opt for lightweight pocket fabric.
Mastering side slant pockets will expand your sewing skills and add both function and finesse to your handmade wardrobe. Take your time, press as you go, and enjoy the process of creating garments that look and feel professionally made.