How to Line your Clothes (videotutorial at the bottom)
How to Line Garments: A Complete Guide for a Professional Finish
Adding a lining transforms handmade clothing, improving comfort, appearance, and longevity. A well-lined garment feels polished, hangs better, and offers a clean interior finish. This guide covers the essentials of lining different garments, from fabric selection to construction techniques.
Why Line Your Clothes?
Comfort: Creates a smooth barrier between your skin and rough fabrics like wool or embellished materials.
Drape and Structure: Helps garments hold their intended shape and movement.
Durability: Reduces friction and absorbs oils, protecting the outer fabric.
Opacity: Prevents sheer or light fabrics from being see-through.
Professional Look: Conceals seams and construction details for a clean inside finish.
Warmth: Adds an extra layer for cold-weather wear.
Choosing the Right Lining Fabric
Select lining fabric based on your garment’s weight, season, and purpose.
Common Lining Fabrics:
Silk Charmeuse: Luxurious, breathable, and skin-friendly.
Polyester Satin: Affordable, smooth, and durable.
Bemberg/Cupro: Rayon-based, breathable, and silky.
Cotton Batiste or Lawn: Lightweight and ideal for summer garments.
Kasha Satin: Flannel-backed for warmth in winter wear.
What to Consider:
Match lining weight to garment fabric weight.
Choose breathable fabrics for items worn against the skin.
Use slippery linings for jackets and coats worn over other clothing.
Consider color coordination to prevent visible contrasts.
Essential Tools and Supplies
Lining fabric
Matching thread
Sharp scissors or rotary cutter
Fine pins or clips
Hand-sewing needles
Measuring tape
Iron and ironing board
Tailor’s ham (for pressing curved seams)
Basic Lining Methods
Bagged Lining Method
Best for jackets, coats, and vests.
Construct the outer garment and lining separately, leaving openings at sleeves or side seams.
Place right sides together and stitch along edges (neckline, front, hem).
Turn right side out through an opening.
Close the opening with slip or ladder stitch by hand.
Free-Hanging Lining Method
Ideal for skirts and dresses.
Complete the outer garment.
Sew the lining as a separate piece, slightly smaller than the garment.
Attach the lining at the waist or zipper area.
Hand-sew lining to zipper tape.
Hem the lining 1–2 inches shorter than the outer garment.
Step-by-Step: Lining a Jacket
Cut lining pieces, adding extra width across the back if needed.
Construct lining similarly to the jacket, skipping topstitching.
Attach interfaced facings to jacket fronts.
Join lining and facing units at front edges.
Stitch lining and jacket together at neckline and front edges.
Turn right side out and press.
Set sleeves into lining and jacket together.
Finish with a jump hem for ease of movement.
Professional Touches
Jump Hem
Add 1–2 inches of extra length to lining sleeves and hem. Fold and tack in place to allow movement without pulling the outer garment.
Back Pleat
Cut lining back piece 1–1.5 inches wider. Fold into an inverted pleat and baste at neckline and hem for extra ease.
Hong Kong Seam Finish
Bind exposed seams with bias tape for a clean look in partially lined garments.
Stay Tape
Apply tape to necklines and armholes before attaching lining to prevent stretching.
Common Challenges & Solutions
Lining Pulls or Twists
Cut lining slightly smaller than the garment.
Include ease or pleats in movement areas.
Double-check alignment during attachment.
Visible Lining
Hem lining shorter than the outer garment.
Secure lining with matching thread.
Choose lining in a coordinating color.
Bunching or Wrinkling
Grade seams to reduce bulk.
Press thoroughly during construction.
Ensure lining fabric suits the garment’s weight and drape.
With careful fabric selection and precise construction, lining can elevate your sewing projects to a professional standard. Take your time, press as you go, and enjoy the process of creating garments that are beautiful inside and out.